Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their children are unwilling to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these narratives and experience the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
